Evidently, not this month. Just when we thought maybe the good folks at AP would lay back, take a breather, have a nice glass of Bordeaux—whatever—they drop five more new models. With picks from the CODE 11.59 and Royal Oak collections, there’s something for everyone…so long as you like your watches complicated. Like, highly complicated, with calendars and chronographs and tourbillons and and GMTs and all manner of fun horological stuff.
If this isn’t one of the coolest expressions of the AP CODE 11.59 collection since its 2019 debut, I will eat my hat. (I don’t actually own a hat so joke’s on you, but you get it.) What we have here is a highly sophisticated flying tourbillon counterbalanced with an understated case and dial — a very, very chic dial. The 41mm case itself is 18K white gold with a black ceramic midcase; a thin bezel and a double-curved sapphire crystal frame a black onyx face devoid of conventional hour markers. Instead, a printed, pink gold-toned minute track graces the inner bezel, while pink gold hands and a laser cut, pink gold “Audemars Piguet” signature join the tourbillon case, which showcases the pulsating balance wheel within. Powering the watch is the automatic Calibre 2950 with 65 hours of power reserve.
In keeping with the gold-and-ceramic theme, check this out: A pink gold and black ceramic automatic chronograph with tourbillon. Housed in a 41mm 18K pink gold case with a black ceramic midcase, this 50-piece limited edition’s bi-color livery is complemented by a black outer minute track, a skeletonized dial, a dual-register chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers, and a tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The automatic Calibre 2952 with its 40 jewels and mind-boggling 479 components is a thing of stunning beauty, boasting a pink gold oscillating weight and flyback functionality. Contrasting white gold hands maintain legibility, but truthfully, if you’re rocking this thing, you’re probably a masked superhero fighting crime by day and attending fundraisers at night. And at that point — who cares what time it is?
Prefer something a bit more avant-garde in your tourbillons? Ok, we get that. How about this new Flying Tourbillon Openworked with an insane, bright blue 41mm ceramic and 18K white gold case housing a hand-wound, skeletonized movement? Limited to just 50 pieces, this wildly cool reference features a blue ceramic midcase, a blue minute track, and a blue, rubber-coated strip lined with calfskin leather. 18K pink gold hands and pink gold accents on the movement add small burst of contrast, but the Calibre 2948 is the real star of the show: Composed of several layers, it features an openworked mainplate and bridges, multiple finishes, and 196 different parts. Feel like showing off a bit, but not in a gaudy way? This is the watch to do it with.
A new 37 mm version of the 39 mm “Jumbo” AP Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3, which debuted earlier this year, has been released in a snazzy purple dial, in case you need extra emphasis that you own one. This marks the first time a flying tourbillon has been introduced in a smaller millimeter size thanks to the ultra-thin Caliber 2968, which took five years to develop and measures 3.4 mm thick. The new sizing and color (the 39 mm version comes in a Navy dial) will appeal to an entirely new audience—both those with smaller wrist sizes and those who simply prefer watches that wear a touch smaller. Rest assured, these won’t be available for long.
Speaking of superheroes, the Royal Oak Concept actually is a superhero’s watch; AP partnered with Marvel on the AP Black Panther edition of its futuristic tourbillon timepiece back in April of 2021. The latest version, however, is somewhat more subdued, featuring a green ceramic bezel, crown, and pushers paired to a green rubber strap. The 44mm titanium case architecture, with its contemporary, sandblasted aesthetic and highly faceted design, remains, while the black, hand-wound Calibre 2954 provides a GMT complication in addition to a tourbillon, plus a function selector and an impressive 10-day power reserve via twin barrels. Looking like a military watch from the future, the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT is a complicated masterwork from a maison that’s constantly pushing the design envelope.