Pascal Raffy acquired the House of Bovet in 2001. That same year, Bovet co-founded the Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF). On that occasion, Pascal Raffy promised that the first Bovet timepiece to be certified would be manufactured entirely in its own workshops.
A stunning debut Bovet Rising Star
The Rising Star tourbillon is manufactured entirely by DIMIER 1738 Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale (Prestigious Craft Watchmaking Manufactory) which was acquired by Pascal Raffy in 2006; above all, this is the most complicated timepiece to have been developed and manufactured by the manufacture.
With its 608 components, the Bovet Rising Star tourbillon is the emblematic model of the Grand Complications Collection. Its movement has a 7day power reserve. In addition to showing the hours, minutes and seconds, the Rising Star tourbillon displays two further independent time zones. Each of the two has a day/night indicator and a disc listing twenty-four cities for the twenty-four different time zones.
The Rising Star tourbillon features an Amadeo case which enables the timepiece to be converted into a reversible wristwatch, a miniature table clock or a pocket watch. Because the timepiece is reversible, the watchmakers decided to display the hours and minutes on an off-centre dial on the other side, so creating a fascinating second face.
Excellence is required
To qualify for the precious label, the timepieces must pass a wide range of stringent tests. Each timepiece must satisfy both chronometric and aesthetic criteria, guarantee perfect reliability, provide evidence of high quality manufacturing processes and be decorated according to the most rigorous norms of Prestige Watchmaking. Last but not least, all of the components must be manufactured and assembled in Switzerland (100% Swiss Made).
To justify a chronometric standard worthy of the label, the movements must first obtain a certificate issued by COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). Since this certification is delivered for the movement alone, it is a recognized fact that the performance measured in the test may no longer be the same once the movement has been cased-up. That is why a second chronometry test is performed by the Fleurier Quality Foundation, once the timepiece has been completed and cased-up. These measurements are taken on a machine that has been specially developed by and for the FQF: the Fleuritest. This is a computer-controlled robot. The movements and daily activity of a wearer’s wrist have been programmed according to various models. With these different models, the Fleuritest simulates the natural movements of a day’s use, while at the same time measuring and analyzing the rate and accuracy of the timepiece.
The FQF label also requires the timepiece to be Chronofiable validated. Chronofiable is an independent laboratory whose role is to test the dependability of the components and entire timepiece over the long term. Accelerated “ageing” of the timepiece is simulated.
The reputation of Bovet was acquired over nearly two centuries through the combination of perfect chronometry and unrivalled use of the decorative arts applied to watchmaking. The Rising Star tourbillon therefore had nothing to fear from the uncompromising rigour of the experts at the Fleurier Quality Foundation.
The movement was presented to them first in kit form so that each component could be examined individually in its entirety. The choice of materials, the resources deployed, the manufacturing techniques, selection of finishes and decoration have all been analysed at great length to determine compliance with the regulations adopted by the Foundation. A second expertise takes place once the movement is finished and assembled in order to test the consistency between theory, aesthetics, functions, chronometry and durability of the movement. Because of the complexity of the Rising Star tourbillon movement, twelve months were needed to complete all of these tests.
The principles underlying the Fleurier Quality Foundation likewise embody those of the Bovet. Logically enough, the two seals therefore appear on the same timepiece. This event had to be awaited patiently because Pascal Raffy first needed to restore Bovet’s status as a Manufactory and guarantee its sustained excellence.
This first for Bovet is also a first for the Fleurier Quality Foundation because the Rising Star Tourbillon is the most complicated timepiece to be certified by the Foundation in the twelve years of its existence.
Named after a Swiss watchmaker who was a pioneer in selling Swiss timepieces in China, Bovet watches are easily distinguished by the Lépine style pocket watch case with a crown at 12 o’clock. In fact, the straps on all Bovet watches are detachable to convert them into pocket watches, which Bovet calls the Amadeo convertible case. This pocket watch styled case has been the hallmark of the brand since it was resurrected in the nineties by Roger Guye and Thierry Oulevay (who later founded Jean Dunand). In 2001, the Fleurier-based brand was acquired by Pascal Raffy. And just earlier this year Swiss trading house DKSH acquired a fifth of Bovet, as well as the right to distribute the brand in Asia.Mr Raffy has made Bovet into a small high horology brand – production is about 2300 pieces a year – with a lot of focus on decorative dials and cases. Equally significant is Mr Raffy’s decision to vertically integrate Bovet. In 2006 Bovet acquired STT (formerly Progress Watch), which is best known for the tourbillon movements it supplies to various brands including Harry Winston and Peter Speake-Marin, renaming it Dimier 1738. Bovet also acquired dial producer Valor Lopez & Villa in the same year. Having acquired those companies, Bovet now makes nearly all its high complications in-house, along with all of its dials. A good example of Bovet’s movement as well as dial expertise is the Rising Star Triple Time Zone Tourbillon. Equipped with an in-house Dimier calibre with seven day power reserve, the Rising Star is a limited edition of 190 pieces as well as nine unique pieces, one of which is shown here. The unique pieces have miniature paintings on the reverse dials. The miniature paintings are inspired by the pocket watches Edouard Bovet sold in China in the 19th century. This elaborately styled aesthetic, which includes enamelling, engraving and even pearls, is the second design characteristic of Bovet, in addition to the crown at 12.
This is the Bovet Amadeo Fleurier Rising Star Triple Time Zone Tourbillon. This exquisite watch has a round case made of 18K pink gold encrusted with 64 baguette-cut diamonds, weighing around 4.27 cts. The first guilloche dial is a brown color with golden hour and minute hands. The power reserve indicator is located at the 12 position. The second and third time zones are at position 9 and 3 positions respectively and include a day/night indicator. A unique two-sided tourbillon combined with a second hand resides on the bottom of the clock. On the reverse side of the watch is a small guilloche brown dial, branded hour and minute hands in pink gold. Like all watches in the Fleurier Amadeo collection, this model can easily be transformed from a wrist watch to a pocket, desktop watch, or even worn as a necklace on a chain. This model is equipped with a Bovet Fleurier 16BM01AI mechanism and has a power reserve of 7 days. Alligator strap with black classic clasp in 18K pink gold. Limited Edition of only 19 copies.